Bath

20120831-182903.jpg
Keith and I had never been to Bath, so Ursula took us there this week. We drove along the Bath Road through many picturesque villages and parked in the Park “n Drive and caught a bus into Bath.
20120831-182702.jpg
We explored the Abbey and I was captivated by the Bath Abbey Diptychs. Created by Sue Symons, they consist of thirty five panels and depict the life of Christ. Each panel has two pictures – one of calligraphy, the second is a textile picture combining embroidery and fabric and quilting. They are displayed along one wall of the Abbey. I took many photos of them, but the light from the windows opposite are reflected in the glass. They are creative, beautiful and amazing. It took the artist one year and 3,000 hours of work – exquisite!
20120831-182721.jpg
20120831-182734.jpg
20120831-182743.jpg this is the ceiling of the Abbey – a small bit of it!
Bath was a town that the wealthy visited to stay for up to six months at a time – they would “lodge” in one of these glorious homes, spend time visiting the baths, socialise, eat, drink and fill in time. Bath was in its hey day from around 1700 but by 1800, Brighton had become “the place” to go. Jane Austen didn’t visit Bath during its prime time, nor could her family afford to stay in one of these “lodgings”.
20120831-182800.jpg
20120831-182817.jpg

We visited Number 1 Royal Crescent Bath – the first house in the Crescent that has been turned into a museum and furnished exactly as it was in 1700. This was interesting and the guides were most entertaining – making us laugh and laugh with their antics and stories – one of the guides took herself far too seriously, while another entertained us with stories about her own life and gossip about the other guides.

One of the things that I had not thought about was the smell and matters of sanitation. The dining room had a screen and if a man wished to relieve himself, he merely went behind the screen, while women went upstairs. There was no running water or heating or a bathroom of any kind. I can’t imagine what this would have been like.
20120831-182847.jpg

Posted in Travelling | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

A birthday walk

20120831-170607.jpg
Somerset is a lovely place to have a birthday. If my family had been here, it would have been perfect. We went to church with my aunt to her village church in Churchill and then had a walk through the Mendip hills that lie behind her house. We drove through this amazing gorge and past this giant rock outcrop where Augustus Toplady apparently sought refuge during a massive storm. It is alleged that this inspired him to write the words to the hymn “Rock of ages, cleft for me”. I love this hymn and was excited to be reminded of its words. Toplady had been the vicar of a local church in Blagdon which we walked past during the afternoon.

20120831-170722.jpg

20120831-170625.jpg

Ursula was following a walk written in a book of local walks and the author debunked this myth quite firmly. Don’t you hate it when this happens? Apparently he didn’t write the words to this hymn until a few years later when working in London and he wanted a hymn to go with his sermon. I am sure that he remembered being caught in that storm and seeking shelter behind that rock!

20120831-170645.jpg

This walk took us through fields, along muddy tracks, through tiny villages, past churches, cute houses and through more fields. We walked amongst sheep and cows – it was delightfully rural. It was warm and sunny and I sang the words to Toplady’s hymn to myself as we walked.

20120831-170707.jpg

Posted in Travelling | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

Coming down from the mountain top experience

After a wonderful week, we plunged down from our mountain top experience with a bit of a bump. The next day we drove down the M5 towards Iron Bridge – in Shropshire, to stay with yet another cousin Charles and his wife Vicki who run a bed and breakfast place there. Vicki has a nasty type of cancer, so we were plunged into seeing the havoc this is wreaking upon their lives. They have two gorgeous children aged one and almost five. Poor Vicki had been given a month off chemo but had spent the previous few days in hospital and had to return the next day.

20120831-162009.jpg

It is hard to talk about wonderful walks when this is the reality of your life. We are glad we visited – again, I had not seen Charles for over ten years, so it was wonderful to catch up very briefly. We stayed overnight and then drove to North Somerset to stay with Charles’ Mum, Ursula – this time on my mother’s side of the family. We arrived on her granddaughter Sophia’s ninth birthday, so we joined in with the birthday celebrations with my cousin Susannah and husband Alex and other daughter Florence. We felt so welcomed and enjoyed the cake and birthday dinner.

20120831-162058.jpg

We are here for a week of exploring this gorgeous part of England and to spend time with this side of the family.

20120831-162128.jpg

Posted in Travelling | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

A lakeside stroll

20120831-160652.jpg

On our final day, we chose a walk along a track on the other side of the Lake. It was cool and looked like it might rain, but then this was like every other day we had been there, so this did not deter us. This time, instead of walking up and up and up and then down, down down, we followed an undulating track beside the lake.

20120831-160732.jpg

We walked through a forest of silver birches with wonderful glimpses of the lake.

20120831-160755.jpg

This place is gloriously beautiful, even when shrouded with mist and there are black clouds rolling in. We walked from a tiny village called Patterdale to a village called Howtown and you say it “how town” apparently. We caught a ferry back and froze – the wind was a little chilly.

20120831-160810.jpg

20120831-161404.jpg

Posted in Travelling | Tagged , | Leave a comment

Mountain goat experiences

20120831-152018.jpg

We did a number of walks during our week in the Lake’s District. The day my cousin Joanna came to visit with her family the sun came out, so after a cup of tea, we set off to climb a hill on the other side of the lake with a “pimple” on its top.

20120831-153720.jpg – this was the pimple – a giant cairn which Matthew promptly tried to climb.

20120831-152111.jpg

Seeing the sun was out, we thought we would do this before lunch – and Keith assured us it would be short. However, it took ages to drive there along the narrow winding road – deceptive – on the map, it looked no distance at all.

20120831-152149.jpg

It was a steep climb straight up a grassy path with amazing views. It was incredibly windy and there was a definite chill to the air.

I had not seen Joanna for twenty six years and we managed to talk all the way up, catching up on news about different family members. It was a delight to meet two of her three children – Susannah and Matthew. Joanna is a cousin from my father’s side – the Wright family and there is a story about me that is told with much laughter whenever I meet any Wright family.

When I was eight, my family spent Christmas in England. Much to everyone’s surprise, it snowed, so it was a white Christmas – my first and only one. On Boxing Day, we were with the Wright family and all the children were rugged up in coats and boots and sent outside to play and probably let off steam. There was a pond in the garden covered in ice. I told my boy cousins who were both a little older than me that I had always wanted to ice skate. At that stage I had not read Noel Streatfield’s White Boots. They encouraged me to have a go, so I did. I stepped confidently onto the ice and with a spectacular crash, I fell through the ice and was drenched from head to foot. I emerged looking like a drowned rat, while my wicked cousins doubled over with laughter. I remember wondering how I would explain my state to my mother, who I knew would not be amused. No one told me about ice skates or testing ice – I have never lived it down.

It was a fun day and Joanna and I promised not to leave it another twenty six years before meeting again.

20120831-152259.jpg

The next day, Keith and I set off to drive to Whitehaven, a small town on the coast to visit my aunt and uncle – again on the Wright side of the family. We chose to go the scenic route, which involved driving over perilous passes and down very narrow roads that wound up and down the hills, they were a bit more like goat tracks than roads. We did get a little lost and added an enormous loop that took half an hour but only about two miles closer to our destination. I have to confess that I held my breath a great deal and was very glad that I was not the driver.

The last time I saw my Aunt, she was about the age that I am now – again twenty six years have passed. We enjoyed finding out about each other and the day went fast. It took us over three hours to get there and an hour to go home – this time the more direct route – I had decided that I am not much of a mountain goat.

20120831-152346.jpg

Posted in Travelling | Tagged | 2 Comments

Climbing Catbell

20120827-111711.jpg
I am married to a mountain goat – a wonderful mountain goat, but he sees a mountain and wants to climb it – simple as that. He has always been like this and I have followed him up many steep climbs – not always filled with enthusiasm, but normally agree on reaching the summit that it was worth the effort.

20120827-111807.jpg

The Lake’s District is a paradise for mountain goats – many mountains and many walks – just a limited number of days. My mother had sent an email to us telling us about a walk at Keswick called the Catbell’s. She had done this climb many years ago and said it was beautiful.

Indeed it was beautiful – stunningly beautiful – even when the weather was far from beautiful. The weather report had promised us “chunks of rain” for this day – the only rain in the entire country was to be chunked over us. Undeterred, we set off.

It was a steep climb up to the first peak. You then walk across a narrow ridge to the second peak and scramble up this. If you are feeling particularly adventurous, there is a third peak. We had views the entire way up and looked out across the Derwent Water and then around towards the north and west.

20120827-111843.jpg

The trick with walking across the ridge at the top was to not look down – you could look out, but down was deadly. There was a strong wind blowing, so I concentrated on keeping to the track and not moving off it. We barely had time to get our water bottles out at the top of the second peak before the heavens opened and the chunk of rain fell upon us – time for raincoats and a retreat to a more sheltered spot below.

20120827-111408.jpg

I wondered about the origin of the name Catbell and wonder if it comes from this beautiful purple bell shaped flower that grows in sheltered spots up and down the hillside.

20120827-112003.jpg

When we reached our car, the sky cleared and the sun came out. I found myself saying to Keith “do you want to go back up, now the sun is out?”

20120827-112043.jpg

Posted in Travelling | Tagged , , | 4 Comments

Sunshine

20120826-190938.jpg
The view from my window seat across Ullswater Lake is stunning and is ever changing. When the sun shines everything sparkles. The sun came out for us on our first day in the Lake’s District and Keith had found a walk he thought we would enjoy.

It promised glorious views and it certainly did not disappoint. In fact, it was so perfect that we both decided that if it rained for the rest of the week, this moment of sunshine would suffice.

A few miles down the lake is a waterfall called Aire force. At first, I thought that the airforce had an airport there and thought it rather peculiar that many previous visitors had commented on enjoying their visit to the Aire force. I kept asking myself “why would they choose to visit an air base?” Silly me. The waterfall was spectacular and was loud abounding in energy. However, it was set in a dark dark wood with no view at all. This is a picture of the bridge going across the top of the tallest fall – a little different to the stepping stones of Wentworth Falls!

20120826-191538.jpg

I was craving to walk in the sunshine and have open space around me.  Here we caught a glimpse of  Lake Ullswater:

20120826-191615.jpg
We eventually found the track leading up Gowbarrow Fell. It went up and up and up. The vegetation, characteristic of all the Lake District area is low lying – lots of bracken growing, with very few trees, lending itself to constant views.

20120826-191902.jpg

20120826-191746.jpg

Much of the hillside was covered in a beautiful, tiny purple flower. From a distance, it looked like the hills were clothed with a purple shawl.

20120826-192029.jpg

With the time difference, it was 19th August back home, our youngest son’s nineteenth birthday – a perfect time to think about him and the joy he has been to us both – we toasted Johnny with our bottles of water. It is birthdays when family and friends seem far away – even more so here as we had no internet access at all.

20120826-191053.jpg

What a day and what a walk. God’s world is majestic and I was filled with wonder and awe in response.

Posted in Travelling | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

“Pulses of rain”

We left Derbyshire reluctantly, we could easily fill a month without trying, but the northern Lakes District beckoned. I am delighting in the weather forecasts and have never heard such varied ways of describing wet weather. They told us we were in for a day of “pulses of rain”. We packed our car during one particularly heavy pulse and set off through the Peak district.

One village was begging to be visited – Eyam – this is the “plague village” that Geraldine Brooks based her book Year of Wonder. I had not realised that this village was located in the Northern Peaks, but can still vividly remember her descriptions of this village set in a “dip in the landscape”. To get to the village, you drive between two sheer cliffs and up a hill and into the village – it certainly is in a dip – surrounded by hills. In order to stop the disease spreading, the villagers – influenced by the Minister closed the village completely to the outside world. Three hundred and fifty people lived there and two hundred and sixty died.

What a sad, sad two years – 1665 and 1666 for this village and its survivors. Whole families perished. We experienced yet another pulse of rain as we explored the streets and church.

We were heading for the Ullswater Lake in the Northern Lakes District to stay in a place called Watermillock. It pulsed as we drove up the Motorway and the landscape changed from misty invisibility to vivid hills and dales and glorious colour. I chose this place on a whim – there was a window seat with a view and it is a breathtakingly glorious view, even when the weather pulses. It constantly changes. We can see the long narrow lake – it reminds me of the lake where the Swallows and Amazons is based – I can imagine the little sailing boats scuttling down the lake with hills on each side and tiny villages tucked in sheltered coves.

William Wordsworth visited this lake and wrote his famous

“I wandered lonely as a cloud
that floats on high over hills and dales
when all at once I saw a crowd
A host, of golden daffodils”

We have missed the daffodils, but there are no crowds here. I had been warned by one of my aunts that coming to the Lakes district at this time of year was like going into a giant car park and we would not be able to move or breathe. Encouraging. She lives in Wales and told me that the lakes down there are just as beautiful and there are no people. Well, she has not been to Ullswater and it is delightfully quiet.

Again, we have the dilemma of what to do – far too much with only a week. We also have another Aunt to visit in nearby Whitehaven and I have a cousin coming over for a day with her family – I have not seen either of them since 1986 – a lifetime ago. Meanwhile, while the weather pulses, I could happily sit on the window seat, with a book and a cup of tea.

Posted in Travelling | Tagged , , | 3 Comments

“Patchy”


While Keith pored over his minute book of the Wirksworth Classis, I pored over maps. So little time, so many walks. I chose a walk in the Dovedale valley which included a steep climb, magnificent views and included the names of interesting landmarks.

After a dirty weather day, we were hoping for something that included more sunshine than rain. At 6am it did not look promising, but by 8, there were patches of sunshine. “Quick” I urged Keith, we have to make the most of this patch. Somehow, we gathered our stuff, piled into the car and off we drove down those narrow capillaries towards Ilam and Dovedale.

It included walking through meadows with sheep and cows, over styles, and up and up and up. The instructions suggested we zig zag, and for a moment Keith and I were back in Kyrgyzstan – another walk, again up, up and up with a Russian guide who had very little English. He pointed up and said “zig zag panorama”.

Again, the climb was steep and long, but it was worth it – we could see for miles. The walk down took us into a heavily forested environment which was sheltered and quiet.

At the bottom we found the babbling Dove River. It was an easy walk back along the river with spectacular peaks on each side. After having not sighted a soul we now met numerous families out to enjoy this patch of sunshine which grew and grew and grew.

We finally reached some giant stepping stones across the river with a spectacular peak before our eyes. I was waiting for it: Keith says “I’d love to climb that”. By this time, I was a little weary and I just gave him that look which he knows only too well. So it was left unclimbed until another day.

Posted in Travelling | Tagged , | Leave a comment

Discoveries

Keith and I spent two days in the Derbyshire Record office. There were twelve packets we had chosen ahead of time, and we were permitted to look at them one at a time. It was a bit like Christmas time – we each had a packet tied neatly with tape and no idea what it contained. The first packet contained “the letters” between Katherine Gell and Richard Baxter – which Keith had discovered via the internet four years earlier. It also contained copies of letters written by Robert Porter, a local Minister at nearby Pentrich. These letters were written between 1655 and 1658 – soon after Katherine’s infant son Thomas died aged seventeen weeks.

This was also a “peak” time for Puritan practices – and the Gell family were known for their strong commitment to puritan practices and Katherine was keen to be diligent in the duties of Christian living – bible reading, prayer and meditation, as well as raising her children and for looking after the poor and needy who lived in the tiny villages nearby. This sense of duty started to overwhelm her after Thomas died.

I wonder whether Katherine put up with circumstances that gave her cause for much anxiety and fret ever since her marriage and move to Hopton and Thomas’ death tipped her over into a state of depression. This notebook does not contain Katherine’s letters to these two men (although some of her letters are with Richard Baxter’s correspondence in Dr Williams’ Library in London) – but much can be gleaned from what they write to her. She appears almost suicidal and her bible reading, prayers and meditations do nothing to sooth her unsettled soul.

Katherine has carefully copied these letters into this notebook and probably returned the letters to the author – this was a normal practice of the time. She has beautiful writing and has used her own shorthand to make it quicker and easier. There is a tiny piece of paper that looks like a bookmark – suggesting she would sit and read these letters again and again. Were these letters helpful? Did they provide comfort? We can only guess as after 1658 the letters end and not much else is known of Katherine except that she died in 1671.

Keith was excited in a Keith way about the Porter letters and started to write them out by hand. The notebook contained about 150 pages – and it was going to be long and painstaking. He asked the staff if he could photograph them. They were positive, providing we did not use a flash. Excitedly we started, Keith thinking he could put them onto his iPad and work from home in Aus on writing them out in more contemporary language at his leisure. Suddenly, the staff asked us if we had much more to copy. Apparently we were breaching copyright. Here began a tangle legal jargon and the making of ridiculous laws. Apparently, these letters fall under the copyright laws which last until 2039 and you can only copy 5% at one time. The staff had been on a copyright training course and were adamant – the law must be upheld. Just means we will have to return one day – with lots of time.

this red tape was first manufactured in Wirksworth – how ironic that we had our encounter with legal red tape here!

The other packets contained equally interesting documents, all small enough for us to copy by hand. The other discovery was a journal article written in 1880 in the Journal of Derbyshire Archaelogical and Natural History Society – who would think to look there for an article containing the minutes of the Wirksworth Classis – meetings of local ministers in which they listened to each other preach sermons and decide whether the local clergy being picked to work at the nearby churches were suitable candidates – based on their ability to preach the word truthfully. I would like to note that I found this article and then kindly copied it for my husband – almost 100 pages – no breaching of copyright this time, and he offered me a job of “research assistant”. I responded “perhaps you could be my research assistant”.

Posted in Travelling | Tagged , | 1 Comment